Watches by material: 7 carbon watches that are lightweight, futuristic and hard as nails
Zach BlassWatchmaking is a heritage and tradition-driven industry that does not always feel the need to explore modern design and materials. But fortunately some manufacturers have realised there is a segment of consumers itching for brands to do just that. In previous articles I have noted the rather homogenised nature of watches on the market which, to be fair, is largely a result of our purchasing behaviors that steer the course that companies take. But the growing presence of carbon in watchmaking today constitutes a rebel outpost that is countering this aspect of the industry. Carbon has the benefit of being a very robust and light alternative to more common metal cases. It is easier to tame on a manufacturing line than titanium, but provides comparable shock resistance and heft to the lightweight metal. Carbon naturally provides a new texture and distinctive aesthetic previously not found in timepieces and more brands are beginning to experiment with the futuristic material. Here are seven carbon watches you should check out, all at varying price points.
Victorinox I.N.O.X. Carbon Mechanical
Because carbon is fairly new to the industry, the pricing of the watches can be at times quite high – usually to offset the costs of the brand’s research and development that went into perfecting their proprietary blend of the material. Fortunately there are some more approachable offerings that make these watches more accessible to the end consumer.
The Victorinox I.N.O.X. Carbon watch is one such example. A lot of R&D went into the I.N.O.X. watch to make it incredibly tough as well as easy on the eyes. To validate their efforts to create a highly robust carbon watch, Victorinox even had a 64-tonne tank drive over their watch without breaking it. In addition, the brand boasts it can not only accompany you on a dive 200 metres below sea level, but also survive two hours in a washing machine set to 90 degrees fahrenheit.
As reliable as its 43mm case, the I.N.O.X. Carbon is powered by a Sellita SW-200 with 38 hours of power reserve. The movement is visible behind it’s titanium exhibition caseback with a sapphire crystal to match the crystal protecting the dial. The watch is highly legible due to ample SuperLuminova® slathering the hands and markers, while a stepped radial outer minutes track circles its inner bezel. As if there was not enough value at play here, the watch even comes delivered in a special package housing an exclusive Spartan PS knife and black protective bumper. Price: $1,150 USD
Breitling Endurance Pro
Breitling has found great success with its watches made of Britelite – a carbon-reinforced polymer proprietary to their manufacture. Their latest carbon-infused creation is the Endurance Pro, an incredibly rugged and reliable quartz watch ready for any adventure. The lineup has many colours to explore, allowing buyers to match the aesthetic to their wardrobe and personality.
The watch is 44mm in diameter and 100 metres water resistant. While not secured by a screw-down crown, the twin gaskets in the push-down crown provide two layers of security against permeation from moisture and water. The thermo-compensated Breitling 82 caliber will provide highly accurate timekeeping over the long term, and naturally affords greater shock resistance than your standard mechanical movement. The watch features a chronograph and calendar complication and a compass bezel to aid in your expeditions. The pulsation scale on the inner bezel and printed minute hashes will match the colour of the strap paired with the watch so, for example, here the orange strap matches the orange outer ring of the dial. Price: $3,000 USD
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers
Arguably the best carbon watch of 2020, the GPHG-nominated DOXA SUB 300 Aqua Lung US Divers carbon limited edition took the watch world by storm. DOXA, for the most part, is known for maintaining the profiles of their vintage pieces in the modern era. Like Rolex, they only make incremental changes to help modernize and perfect their beloved divers. So it came as a bit of a surprise when they took their SUB 300 watch and fabricated it in a svelte carbon case.
The flying saucer-like case is 42mm in diameter, but with an incredibly compact lug to lug of approximately 45mm it is wearable for a variety of wrists. The lightweight heft of carbon will be a welcome upgrade for those who wish to try and test its 300 metres of water resistance – secured by a screw-down crown. The COSC-certified movement has 38 hours off power reserve, and is even protected by an inner titanium chamber to ensure it maintains its highly accurate timekeeping.
On second thoughts, to say the brand does not like to push boundaries is not completely accurate. In fact, they have been ahead of the curve for quite some time. While brands like Rolex release their professional divers with only black dials for the most part, DOXA has been manufacturing dials in a variety of colours for their divers with five distinct tones to choose from – orange, yellow, turquoise, navy, and black. Viewed from that perspective, this jump to carbon was the next step in the DOXA journey. Price: $4790 USD
TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph Carbon
The TAG Heuer Carrera is a classic racing chronograph that has been the staple of their catalogue for decades. Carrera references have found a home on the wrists of many drivers throughout the years, some of which were awarded to champions on the circuit. That is why I commend TAG for taking a risk and carbonizing their classic chronograph, and further modernising the aesthetic with an openworked dial. As a result the movement is visible from both the front and back of the watch thanks to its titanium exhibition caseback.
The watch features a carbon-fibre case, bezel and lugs while under the bonnet lurks a caliber HEUER02 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve and a column-wheel operated chronograph complication. Sized at 45mm in diameter and water-resistant to 100 metres, the watch is paired with a sporty rubber composite strap fastened by a titanium folding clasp. Price: $7800 USD
Panerai Submersible Carbotech™ – 47mm ref. PAM00616
For those who are die-hard Panerai fans, or those with wrists capable of taming a 47mm watch, the brand’s Submersible watch in carbon is a really neat timepiece to explore. With such a large size, it’s fabrication in metal can result in quite a heavy watch – and heavy does not always translate well for daily active wear. With the brands proprietary Carbotech™, wearers can enjoy a more lightweight solution from the brand without sacrificing the robust reliability Panerai has built its name on.
The Carbotech™ bezel and crown guard has a wavy vertical brush to it, while the case and lugs have a more of a circular brush. This is really interesting to see as, more often than not, carbon watches harness the material’s irregular natural pattern. This shows Panerai’s extensive fabrication capabilities with the material, giving it a more defined and intentionally detailed look.
The black dial of the watch is warmed by sage-toned fauxtina lumiscent coatings. The vintage vibe is then countered with a modern bright blue running seconds hand and register as well as its Carbotech™ printed text above the sixth hour marker. On its rubber strap, even the Panerai logo is rendered in a matching blue – freshening the watch up with a subtle youthful energy.
Beneath its solid screw-down titanium caseback, the watch features a double-barrel P.9000 movement that will run for about three days. The watch, as expected from Panerai, is highly water-resistant. It is capable of reaching depths of up to 300 metres and its iconic crown guard ensures it does not take in moisture or water on even the most daring of adventures. Price: $17,400 USD
Zenith Defy Classic Carbon
The Zenith Defy Classic Carbon stands out among all of the watches on this list as it is the only watch that includes a bracelet made of solid carbon as well. Considering the saturation of integrated-bracelet sports watches on the market, it is refreshing to see Zenith push the boundaries of what we have come to expect from an increasingly familiar framework.
The 41mm case is 100 metres water-resistant and the entire watch, including its bracelet, weighs a mere 65 grams. Unlike the Panerai above, Zenith has opted to leave a more organic carbon texture on the case – imbuing its appearance with an almost camouflage effect. Though it is made of carbon, both the case and bracelet feature sharp bevels. While not a mirror finish, the bevelling elevates the aesthetic of the sporty watch and adds a touch of elegance into the mix.
The openwork dial proudly displays the hi-tech movement within. The Elite movement, comprised of 187 components, includes both a silicon escape-wheel and lever – making its internals as futuristic and high-tech as its externals. With 50 hours of power reserve, the watch may not last an entire weekend without a wind like some of the others above. But with such a watch in your collection, it would be hard not to make this bad boy your weekend warrior. Price: $19,500 USD
Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Green Carbon
Hublot is known for bold design and pioneering work with materials. Their “art of fusion” mantra encourages those who work for the brand to continually build upon and blend new technologies. If you’ve noticed, all the watches above maintain the more natural black-grey tone of carbon. But Hublot, one not to settle for ordinary, takes their carbon case to the next level by fusing their carbon fibre with an upper layer of green TEXALIUM®.
While the green tone of the 45mm Big Bang Unico may seem like sensory overload at first, it is actually quite appropriate for the theme and purpose of the watch: golf. The green tone and its texture evokes a sense of green grass, or more aptly the razor short grass of the putting green. Even the strap evokes golf, conveying a glove-like texture with its blend of green leather and carbon-textured black rubber.
You might assume the pushers were for a chronograph complication from afar, but they actually serve as an interface for Hublot’s very own unique golf complication. The colour-coded pushers will change the count of the corresponding register – yellow/gray for the number of shots on a particular hole, black/gray for the hole number, and at the eight position a pump pusher that will alter the total score.
And if you find yourself having to reach into the water to grab your shanked golf ball, no worries – the case is water-resistant to 100 metres. Price: $32,500 USD