5 of the best stealth black watches of 2022
D.C. HannayAll-black timepieces don’t get the love that more conventional-looking watches do, but there’s a lot of versatility among the dark anti-heroes of the watch world. A black watch can evoke motorsport vibes, go full-on tactical, or even dress up in an edgy way. Additionally, a black watch doesn’t have to be made from coated steel: titanium, ceramic, and composites are all on offer. And for timeless, versatile style, you can always bet on black. Released this year, here are five of the best black watches for 2022, for when you want to go full stealth mode.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium
To say that Top Gun was top of mind in 2022 is putting it mildly. The film franchise burst back onto the scene reborn, with one of the biggest smashes of the year. Top Gun: Maverick, starring Tom Cruise, was one of Hollywood’s most thrilling rides, breaking the sound barrier and box office records (to the tune of over $1.4 billion worldwide). IWC had a banner year as well, with several well-received releases in their proprietary ceramic/titanium case material, Ceratanium. This one, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium, is one of the best of the Class of 2022. It took the familiar profile of the Pilot’s Chrono, and imbued it with a ghostly presence, with greyed-out markings replacing the stark white of the standard version.
The result is a flight-ready tool watch that still has a need for speed, but in a more wearable 41mm size, and now featuring the lightweight scratch resistance of Ceratanium in a stealth fighter execution. It looks deadly serious without shouting about it, and has the watchmaking chops to back it up.
| Brand | IWC |
| Model | Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 14.5mm (T) x 50mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Ceratanium ceramic/titanium composite |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and caseback |
| Strap | Rubber and textile strap |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Movement | Automatic 69385 Calibre |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, day/date, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$12,600 |
Bamford London MICHELIN X Bamford B347 Pilot Sport
George Bamford’s creations have always been fun-loving, with a healthy twist of irreverence mixed into the martini, and his limited-to-133 Bamford London MICHELIN X Bamford B347 Pilot Sport features all that and more. The raciest variant of his B347 dual register monopusher chrono so far, this bad boy features a 41.5mm forged carbon tonneau case, giving a lightweight motorsport vibe to the whole affair. The biggest visual impact comes from the checkered tachymetre scale, invoking not just the finish line, but a dose of punk-rock energy as well. Bright yellow makes the chrono and subdial hands really pop, powered by the Sellita SW510 MPa 4Hz movement that offers a 62 hour power reserve.
Created as a collab with French tyre manufacturer Michelin, the yellow-flecked rubber strap is actually created from recycled Pilot Sport 5 test tires, and mimics a genuine tyre-tread pattern. The caseback and packaging are emblazoned with the friendly Michelin Man, and the whole package is just another reminder of the exuberance and sly wit of the House of Bamford.
| Brand | Bamford London |
| Model | MICHELIN X Bamford B347 Pilot Sport |
| Case Dimensions | 41.5mm (D) x 14.5mm (T) x 48.5mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Carbon fibre |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Strap | Recycled rubber |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Movement | Automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph |
| Power Reserve | 62 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | £2,083.33 |
TAG Heuer Monaco ‘Dark Lord’ Limited Edition
Created as a tribute to one of Heuer’s most elusive references, the infamous “Dark Lord” Monaco, this limited edition from TAG Heuer captures the menacing mood of the original, and adds some contemporary updates to the recipe. Where the original was rendered in black-coated steel and featured fluorescent orange chrono hands, this update’s 39mm case is crafted from DLC-coated titanium, and accents the chrono and subdial hands with bright red. The handset and indices are new too, glowing with the soft warmth of rose gold plating.
Timing duties are handled by the Calibre HEUER02 Automatic, which also leans into the rose-gold aesthetic via its winding rotor. It improves on the OG with an 80 hour power reserve, and the watch is water resistant to 100 metres, pretty stellar for a chrono without screwdown pushers. Just don’t try timing any regattas while swimming off your yacht. All told, the new Dark Lord is a worthy successor to the unimpeachable cool of the original.
| Brand | TAG Heuer |
| Model | Monaco “Dark Lord” Special Edition |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 15.2mm (T) x 39mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Black DLC-coated grade 2 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and caseback |
| Strap | Black alligator leather, titanium clasp |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Movement | Heuer 02 Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$8,200 |
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Black Numbered Edition
The original 1972 Orfina-manufactured Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is an icon among racing chronos, and how could it not be, since it was envisioned by the designer of the 911? Similar to Heuers and LeJours of the day, the Porsche Design was on another level of cool. Tom Cruise even wore one in Top Gun. The high visibility combo of bright white dial details against jet-black recall dashboard instrumentation, and combined with the black PVD-coated steel case and bracelet, the whole look is pure speed, with the lone jolt of colour coming from the orange chrono hand.
The original utilised Valjoux or Lemania autowinding movements, but the modern limited-edition iteration of the Chronograph 1 features an in-house Kaliber WERK 01.140 movement, which is chronometer certified, and the chrono hand swaps orange for bright red. The 40.8mm case and bracelet also get a big update, constructed from lightweight titanium, and are protected with a bead-blasted black titanium carbide finish. A seductive view of the movement lurks through the sapphire caseback, replete with a blacked-out rotor featuring the Porsche Design logo.
| Brand | Porsche Design |
| Model | Chronograph 1 – All Black Numbered Edition |
| Case Dimensions | 40.8mm (D) x 14.15mm (T) |
| Case Material | Titanium, black titanium carbide finish, bead blasted |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Black |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and caseback |
| Bracelet/Strap | Titanium |
| Movement | Kaliber WERK 01.140 |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$9,650 |
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0
A leftfield choice I couldn’t not include, the retro-futuristic Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 is like nothing else you’ve seen. An unapologetic throwback to the dawn of LED watches, this one’s got a bit more in the horological cred department than your bog-standard plastic digital watch. It’s based on the Only Watch 2021 piece unique created by G-P and George Bamford, a forged carbon and titanium rendering that was itself based on the original Casquette from 1976. We thought that the carbon version (which sold at the charity auction for CHF 80,000) was a one-and-done, but Girard-Perregaux surprised everyone this year with a sinister reimagining done up in ceramic and titanium.
One thing that makes the Casquette such a unique proposition is the side-view LED display, an ergonomic choice designed for easy viewing on the wrist. The movement on the new 2.0 is no off-the-shelf component, either, but G-P’s own quartz GP3980-1474, with additional functions, a tubular LED display, and the protection offered by a sapphire crystal. The original Casquettes were available in steel, rolled gold, and Makrolon, a high-impact polycarbonate plastic, but the 2.0’s case is constructed of black ceramic with a titanium caseback, and reminds me of nothing more than a muscle car’s hood scoop. It’s incredibly wearable, and comfortable too, thanks to the rubber-backed ceramic bracelet that sports a titanium clasp. The whole package elevates what some might consider a toy watch to a wearable work of art.
| Brand | Girard-Perregaux |
| Model | Casquette 2.0 |
| Case Dimensions | 33.60mm (D) x 14.64mm (T) x 42.40mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Ceramic, titanium |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Dial | Tubular LED display |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Bracelet/Strap | Ceramic/rubber |
| Movement | GP3980-1474 |
| Power Reserve | 2 years battery life (approximate) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, chrono, second time zone, day, date, year |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$4,700, check retailer for availability |